{"id":20078,"date":"2021-11-08T16:47:21","date_gmt":"2021-11-08T21:47:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/rubberb.com\/blog\/?p=20078"},"modified":"2023-01-04T11:20:24","modified_gmt":"2023-01-04T16:20:24","slug":"vintage-rolex-submariner-rubber-strap","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/rubberb.com\/blog\/vintage-rolex-submariner-rubber-strap\/","title":{"rendered":"Vintage Rolex Submariner Rubber Strap – What Strap is Best For You?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"Vintage<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Rubber B was the first company in the world to develop custom rubber watch straps exclusively for Rolex timepieces, and since then, the company has added several other prominent watchmakers to its product portfolio. This article is going to be a deep dive on one of the most storied watches in both Rolex\u2019s portfolio and, overall, in horological history – the Rolex Submariner. The goal of this article is very simple \u2013 we want to answer the question \u201cWhich vintage Rolex Submariner Rubber strap is the best?\u201d, which is a question that we get somewhat regularly.

In order to truly answer this question, however, we are going to have to take a look at the history of the watch in a broad context, going through an overview of the history of early vintage Rolex Submariners and eventually concluding with some of the more recent \u201cvintage\u201d Rolex Submariners – we will define how exactly we are going to define \u201cvintage\u201d in more detail in just a few moments.

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As to why we get this question so often, this is in no way surprising, as the Rolex Submariner is one of the most popular luxury sports watches in the world, especially when the topic of dive watches is under consideration. Over the last several years, however, vintage Rolex Submariners, in particular, have really come back in style, so we thought it would be prudent to specifically focus on vintage Rolex Submariners – and what kind of rubber straps are best for these beloved watches, especially if you need to replace the strap on your watch with something that is more reliable and consistent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Rolex Submariner occupies a unique space in our cultural subconscious \u2013 it is probably one of the only watches that most people, even those who don\u2019t collect watches, can claim some kind of familiarity with. That is not an accident \u2013 since its release to the general public in 1954, the Rolex Submariner has been worn by movie stars, both on and off the screen, athletes from various sports leagues, and political figures from around the globe. When placed in this context, it stands to reason that vintage Rolex Submariner watches are making a significant comeback.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There is a strong argument to be made that if you asked a person to picture a Rolex in their head, they would conjure up something in their mind\u2019s eye that looks close to a vintage Rolex Submariner. And because of the long-standing ubiquity of this watch, we felt that it was necessary to a full deep dive into the history of the many vintage Rolex Submariner lines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

To begin with, let\u2019s take a moment to define how we\u2019re going to use the term \u201cvintage Rolex Submariner\u201d for the purposes of this article. In this instance, we are going to primarily focus on every Submariner from the first one, reference number 6204, through reference number 1680, which ended production in 1981. We will include some additional information on later models, however, if we deem them to be historically significant in some way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Now that we have fully clarified the timeline and parameters we will be using,  it is worth providing some context here in the form of some background information on both the Submariner itself, as well as the Rolex company, during the time of its creation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

An Overview of the Rolex Submariner<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

It is not an overstatement to say that the Rolex Submariner was one of the first dive watches ever crafted for general consumer use. It also marked a noted period of flux for Rolex, who was attempting to craft a different kind of watch at the time, and change its image in the process.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Prior to the release of the Rolex, Rolex was primarily known as a company that made \u201cdress watches,\u201d meaning they could really only be worn during certain occasions, and they certainly could not be integrated into an active lifestyle of any kind. The company was primarily known for introducing a handful of what were, at the time, novel features to what was then a burgeoning wristwatch market. These would include such features as bubble back cases, two-register chronographs, the Oyster bracelet, and perpetual automatic movements. During this period, their most popular watch was arguably the Datejust.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Beginnings of the Vintage Rolex Submariner Watch<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

As the 1950\u2019s began, Rolex decided they wanted to expand into making new types of watches and move away from the limitations of the public persona they had at the time. As undersea exploration and mountain climbing became more popular among the general populace, there was something of an \u201cexploration\u201d craze that would begin to take place during this time, as people finally felt safe to travel again after the conclusion of World War II.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This would result in the creation of the Rolex Explorer, which was a radical departure from anything Rolex had done previously at the time. Dials that had previously been white or silver were replaced with an imposing, deep black coloring instead. The dials would also become significantly more luminescent, case sizes would get both bigger and bulkier in terms of thickness, and rotating bezels would soon become standard fare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Rolex<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As a result of this experimentation, Rolex began crafting other \u201cexploration\u201d themed watches outside of the Explorer, including the GMT-Master and the Milgauss. In 1953, Rolex would release three of these watches to the general public \u2013 the 6202 Turn-o-Graph, the Explorer, and the 6204 Submariner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

These watches would closely resemble the modern Rolex watches that we have come to know today, and also represent Rolex\u2019s formal entry into what we would now call the \u201ctool watch\u201d market.  They combined the durability and reliability of sports watches with the formal design elements of dress watches, creating an almost entirely new style of watch \u2013 luxury activewear \u2013 in the process. Thus, w<\/p>\n\n\n\n

hat we would now call vintage Rolex Submariner watches began to be produced, and consumers enthusiastically responded to them within a short period of time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Due to their enduring success, the Rolex Submariner line still continues on today, with its most recent iteration being produced in 2020. However, for the purposes of this endeavor, we are only going to focus on older watches, and in this case, it makes the most sense to start at the beginning \u2013 with the reference 6204 from 1953.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference 6204 \u2013 1953<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

This is the first watch to ever be officially labeled a Submariner, and as such, it should be considered a significant part of horological history. It should also be noted that there is some confusion around when this watch was actually crafted \u2013 some literature mistakenly says 1954, but that was when Rolex began truly marketing the watch in earnest, not the date of its production.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference 6205 – Clean Dial & Pencil Hands – 1954<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

This is one of the most interesting of the early models of the Submariner for a number of different reasons. The first is that this may very well be the only Rolex Submariner that does not have the word \u201cSubmariner\u201d anywhere on the dial. There also doesn\u2019t seem to be any discernible reasons that we find as to why Rolex made this choice, but regardless of their motivation, choosing to do so makes this a very interesting watch indeed.

It is also notable for being the last of the Submariner watches to not feature the Mercedes hands on the dial.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Reference 6205 – Signature & Mercedes Hands – 1954\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The noted Rolex Submariner signature would return to the bottom of the dial of this watch, but more importantly, this would be the first introduction of the famous Mercedes hands that have now become so well associated with the Rolex Submariner line. It should be noted that because this was the first generation of this modification, the hands are a little bit longer here than they would be on later watches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference 5513 \u2013 Various<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The reference 5513 was released in 1962, which was only three years after its immediate predecessor, the 5512, was released by Rolex. And even by Rolex\u2019s own stringent standards, that is a remarkably short amount of time for a watch to be in production.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This iteration is notable amongst the Submariner line for a couple of important reasons, but it did not contain any historical firsts among the product line. If you were to closely examine these watches, you would notice that they have pointed crown guards, which is not a feature that is unique to all Submariner models.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Rolex Submariner 5512-5513<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

And though you would not be able to know this by just looking at the watch, the reference 5513 does not contain a movement that has been certified as a chronometer by the COSC, while the 5512 does contain one. The early generations of this watch use the caliber 1530, which was also used in the non-chronometer versions of its predecessor. Rolex wanted to distinguish between the 5512 and the 5513, so it decided to use the same movement from the non-chronometer version of the 5512 and roll it into the next-generation iteration of the watch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As far as its general appearance goes, the 5513 looks a great deal like the 5512 as well. In fact, sans the missing “Superlative Chronometer \/ Officially Certified” text at the bottom of the dial, it would take an expert to be able to tell the two apart if you put them together side-by-side. Their casing, the bezels, and even the print on the gilded dials are all identical, which meant that Rolex was much more concerned about making technical changes than cosmetic ones where this watch was concerned.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference 5513 \u2013 Explorer Dial \u2013 1962 \u2013 1965<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

This is one of the more popular vintage Submariners to collect, which is in no small part due to how accessible it is, as well as the fact that it looks much different from the other timepieces that have the same reference number. This distinguished look is immediately apparent when you take a look at the dial, which is often referred to as the \u201cExplorer Dial.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The dial has several design elements that are immediately apparent when you look at it, making it fairly easy to identify. The numerals 3, 6, and 9 replace the lume plots on the dial for their respective positions, and there are slim, baton-like shapes in place of the other numerals instead of the normally used dots. The dial text is reduced in size as well, which all help to create the impression of a larger dial. The face of the watch feels elegant and uncluttered as a result.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Earlier on, we mentioned that the 5513 did not contain any notable firsts among Submariner history, but it does have a notable endpoint with regards to the Explorer dial. The 5513 was the last of the Explorer dial Submariners that Rolex would end up producing. When you take into account that the first Explorer dial Submariner was only produced ten years before this, it becomes clear how rapidly the Submariner was changing during this time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There were a handful of 5512 Explorers that were produced around the same time, but the majority of them seem to have been crafted for the UK market. There doesn\u2019t seem to be an explanation as to why this was the case, adding something of a mysterious aura to these beautiful vintage timepieces.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Reference 5513 \u2013 Underline \u2013 1963 \u2013 1964<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

If you look carefully at this version of reference 5513, you will notice that it looks almost identical to its predecessor, except for one key detail. Underneath the word \u201cSubmariner,\u201d there is a small dash that partially underlines the word under the \u201cmar\u201d part of the dial. But why, exactly, is this there in the first place?\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The answer to that question actually has a very interesting backstory behind it \u2013 one that quite literally involves radioactive material, in fact. And while Rolex has never outright confirmed this, and likely never well, a careful examination of the facts leads to this being the most credible interpretation of the available information on the topic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the early years of the manufacturing of luminescent plots, the lume effect was achieved by applying specially made radioactive paint to the dials of the watches. During this time, it was not yet fully understood just how dangerous this material was, and today, this practice is no longer continued.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

During the 1960\u2019s, Rolex underwent a transitional period in order to begin phasing out the use of the material. Thus, because they had dials that had already been printed but not yet lumed, they began underlining their dials to indicate that a lower level of radiation would be found on this watch than had been previously seen on other Rolex watches.\u00a0 The underline dials were only produced from 1962 through 1964, at which point the transition appears to have been successfully completed.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference 5513 \u2013 Double Swiss Underline \u2013 1963 \u2013 1964<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

To further add an interesting wrinkle to the mix, there is yet another <\/em>version of this watch that revolves around an underline on the dial \u2013 though it is in a completely different location than the watch we previously discussed. In this case, the partial underline is under the \u201cOyster Perpetual\u201d signature located at the top of the dial. Additionally, it is worth noting that although this watch has pointed crown guards, it\u2019s among the last of this particular reference number to do so.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The most immediately distinguishing feature about this dial is the double Swiss underline that appears at the bottom of the dial, with one \u201cSwiss\u201d stacked directly on top of the other one. There doesn\u2019t seem to be much information as to why Rolex chose to do this, but it certainly adds a unique distinction to this timepiece.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Reference 5513 \u2013 Gilt Dial with Open Chapter Ring \u2013 1964 \u2013 1966<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

When people are asked to think of a vintage-era gilt dial Submariner, they would likely picture something similar to this watch. It does not contain any distinct markings or signatures, and it is referred to as \u201copen chapter ring\u201d because the hash marks on the gilt are not, as they normally would be, connected by a solid ring on the outer edge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Because this watch was only produced for two years, it is one of the more challenging variants of this reference number to locate. People during this era were also more likely to use their watches as \u201ctools\u201d as opposed to treating them as collector\u2019s items to be saved for the future, so if you do manage to locate one in good condition, you have truly found something special.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Around the time that Rolex stopped producing this watch, they decided to transition the 5513 to a new caliber. Instead of using the 1530, they decided to take a step backward and use the older caliber 1520 for this particular reference number. While the 1530 was the superior caliber from a technical standpoint, the 1520 was easier to mass-produce, and so Rolex ultimately made the choice to use the more cost-effective movement going forward, especially as it was never intended to be a chronometer for the first place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference 5513 \u2013 Bart Simpson \u2013 1966<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Watch collectors are, by their nature, a group that is very motivated by a love of minutiae and small details, which explains how this watch retroactively received its unofficial name, which corresponds to a cartoon character whom the world wouldn\u2019t meet for another 23 years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The reason this watch is referred to as the \u201cBart Simpson\u201d has to do with the coronet, or small crown, at the top of the dial above the word \u201cRolex.\u201d Every Rolex watch has one, and over the years, it has changed a number of times \u2013 some of these changes were likely intentional at the behest of the company, and others were likely simply a result of the manufacturing process and the tools used to make the coronet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

If you look closely at the dial on this watch, the coronet does bear a strong resemblance to Springfield\u2019s favorite son \u2013 a fact many collectors likely take some delight in as well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference 5513 \u2013 Matte Dial with Meters First \u2013 1967 \u2013 1969<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

This watch represents an important moment for both its own reference number and the 5512, as it marks the moment when Rolex decided to move away from gilded dials and instead start using the matte dials, which are what we now most often think of when asked to picture a Rolex dial.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Many of these watches would later print the feet first instead of the meters on the dial, as Rolex was very well aware of how popular their watches were (and still are) in the North American market. However, this particular model has the meters printed first, which makes it something of a rarity if you are able to locate one.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Reference 5513 \u2013 MilSub \u2013 1972 \u2013 1976<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Along with the Explorer version of the 5513, the MilSub is often considered to be one of the most collectible vintage Rolex Submariner watches on the market, especially where the reference 5513 is concerned. This watch would prove to be so popular, in fact, that there are no less than three variants of this timepiece \u2013 this version, a 5513\/5517 double reference, and a 5517 reference. It is important to note that the last two references listed here are only available as MilSub watches, not as regular vintage Rolex Submariners.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The MilSub has several special features that immediately set it apart from other vintage Rolex Submariners \u2013 for starters, it has a very special bezel. This bezel is graduated in one-minute increments around the entire dial, which is not something that you will ever see on a \u201ccivilian\u201d Submariner. Even the hands on this watch are unique, as they are shaped in the form of swords.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The circle-T logo at six o\u2019clock is indicative of the fact that this watch uses tritium lume instead of radium, which is considerably safer for the wearer. There are also fixed bars between the lugs instead of removable spring bars.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If any of those things are missing from the watch, it is very possible that you may be looking at a fraudulent piece. A MilSub is worth significantly more than a traditional reference 5513 among vintage Rolex Submariner collectors, so it is a popular choice to try and doctor up with fraudulent paperwork. Be wary and always make certain you are purchasing your watch from a dealer that you trust and have worked with before.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference 5513 \u2013 Matte Dial with Feet First \u2013 1969 \u2013 1982<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

This watch ends up being historically significant among both its reference number, and the Submariner line as a whole, for several different reasons. Chief among them is the fact that although the 5513 and the 5512 have a lot of overlap in terms of both how they look and their actual technical specifications, this is the last time that any crossover between the two reference numbers would be seen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This watch is nearly identical to its 5512 counterpart, though the lume plots have now graduated to the larger \u201cmaxi\u201d size, and the color has changed to a pale yellow instead of the more commonly seen dark orange and beige that became so well-known.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Additionally, this would be the last generation of the true, no-date vintage Rolex Submariner, making it something of a trophy among collectors who specialize in seeking out these kinds of watches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference 5513 \u2013 Last Generation \u2013 1982 \u2013 1989<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

It is worth noting here that among the watches we have already covered or will cover through the remainder of this article, this will be one of the youngest series, as it began production in 1982 and would conclude in 1989. This watch is also significant because it is one of the last of its reference number that would be produced before the reference number was retired entirely by Rolex, after 27 years of being in continuous production. This is further indicated by the fact that all of these watches have a serial number that begins with \u201cL.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In terms of its aesthetic, this watch looks fairly different than a traditional vintage Rolex Submariner. This is by no means a coincidence \u2013 rather, it is a direct result of the fact that, chronologically, this watch is the exact midpoint between a vintage Rolex Submariner and the more modern models that we have become familiar with today.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Among many collectors, this piece is considered to be something of a \u201cmissing link\u201d between the old and the new, and as such, it is a prized find for anyone fortunate enough to be able to procure one.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One of the most immediately recognizable traits of this watch is its glossy black dial, along with the white gold that completely surrounds each of the tritium hour markers. Additionally, a careful inspection of the dial will also reveal a change to the font used on the dial, as well as some of the detailing on the bezel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference 1680 \u2013 Various<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The reference 1680 is one of the more historically significant iterations of the Rolex Submariner \u2013 so much so, in fact, that there are no less than five different versions of this watch. Below we will further explore each of these watches in more detail and explain why some of them are technically noteworthy with regards to the history of the Submariner line.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference 1680 \u2013 Red Submariner \u2013 1969 \u2013 1975<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The \u201cRed Submariner,\u201d as it has come to be known today among collectors and experts, is certainly an important watch if you are discussing the overall history of the Submariner watch lineage. The primary reason for this is because it is the first of the Submariner watches to have a date complication, which is clearly visible through a small magnifying window at three o\u2019clock.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is particularly unusual, however, because other watch lines that were not necessarily as well-known had this innovation implemented beforehand. For example, the Sea-Dweller line, which is arguably less prestigious, has had a date window complication since its inception, and those watches were released an entire two years earlier than the Red Submariner. Notably, the Red Submariner used the same caliber movement as the early Sea-Dwellers, which was the caliber 1575.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A version of the caliber 1575 was already being used to operate GMT-Masters and Datejust watches, so Rolex simply needed to modify the movement in order to add the complication for the date window on the Red Submariner. Initially, the movement ran at 19,800 VPH and also contained a jumping calendar wheel, but by 1972, they had upgraded the movement. The primary improvement would be the implementation of hacking seconds, which would allow the user to set their watch more precisely.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As a result of adding in the new date window complication, Rolex decided that it would be appropriate to bestow an entirely new reference number upon this iteration \u2013 in this case, 1680. The very earliest versions of this watch feature the word \u201cSubmariner\u201d written in red text at the bottom of the dial with the Submariner\u2019s trademark text, which is how the 1680 received its unofficial nickname among collectors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

During the early to mid-2000\u2019s, many watch aficionados viewed procuring a Red Submariner as a starting point with regards to collecting notable vintage Rolex watches. This was because, comparatively speaking, it was reasonably affordable and yet still had some historical significance within the company, and that was not an easy combination to come by.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It also stood out because it was one of the only Submariners models with a date window that was capable of generating as much excitement as the models without a date window. In the present day, the Red Submariner is no longer seen as a \u201cniche watch\u201d that generates as much interest as it did twenty years ago, largely due to the production of gilt dial watches and other factors, but it is still considered a classic Submariner model and an important part of Rolex\u2019s history.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There is a common misconception that the Red Submariner was only produced for one year, but as we stated above, this is factually inaccurate, as it was produced from 1669 until 1973. Furthermore, it also went through several different iterations during that time, so while the watch is notable, it is not necessarily a \u201crare timepiece\u201d by any applicable measure. There is some debate among the watch collecting community on exactly how many iterations there are officially \u2013 seven or eight \u2013 as some people believe it appropriate to condense the Mark II and Mark III into one iteration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference 1680 \u2013 18K Yellow Gold \u2013 1969 \u2013 1979<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In 1969, Rolex decided to release a solid gold version of the Submariner, which was a divisive choice among longtime fans of the lauded watchmaker. For some people, this led to them no longer considering the Submariner to be a true \u201csports watch\u201d; for members of the opposition, they believed that the Submariner was finally beginning to fulfill its true destiny \u2013 as a luxury watch. As is so often the case with these kinds of matters, there isn\u2019t truly a right or wrong answer here \u2013 only a matter of perspective.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In terms of its technical specifications and aesthetic, the 18K yellow gold version of the 1680 has the exact same dimensions as its steel sister watch \u2013 just plated in yellow gold. The bezel is similar but not exactly the same \u2013 the numerals and markings have been changed from silver to gold, as silver text would look unusual when next to a gold case. The color of the date disc has been changed to a champagne hue as well, for the same reason as the silver markings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The most notable difference in terms of how the watch looks is its dial, which has been deemed a \u201cnipple dial\u201d due to the implementation of raised hour markers. It is worth taking a moment here to point out that the meters-first dial version of this watch is extremely rare, as it was only in production for a total of two years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference 1680 \u2013 18K Yellow Gold with Blue Dial \u2013 1971 \u2013 1979<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The solid gold version of the watch proved popular enough that Rolex decided to produce further variants of it, with this version being the first of several that would come to fruition. The bright blue dial and bezel would very much evoke a nautical feeling, which is fitting for a watch that inherently has so many nautical associations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Though it was not the default bracelet that came with the watch, many people who purchased this particular timepiece decided to order a special version of this watch that was mounted on a President bracelet instead of the traditional factory setting bracelet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Reference 1680 \u2013 COMEX \u2013 The Mid-1970\u2019s<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Rolex, like several other watchmakers throughout history, has been happy to offer their services for a commission when a company reaches out to them with a request to make a specific kind of watch, if they believe the project actually has some merit. The COMEX 1680 is just such an example of one of these collaborations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The largest of any of the Submariner models ever produced, the COMEX 1680 was specifically produced for the French Compagnie maritime d’expertises, or COMEX, in its English abbreviation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

COMEX is a company that specializes in underwater engineering, especially where deep-sea projects are concerned. Because of the uniquely challenging conditions that their employees were working under, COMEX needed to be able to issue them watches that could be utilized underwater, or in deeply submerged conditions, for long periods of time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The dial on this watch has the COMEX logo just above the depth rating, and the word \u201cCOMEX\u201d and a reference number are engraved on the back of the timepiece as well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The 1680 version of the COMEX Submariner is known as the \u201cbig numbers COMEX,\u201d and is a fairly rare watch, making it somewhat difficult to find.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A very important note should be addressed here \u2013 not all COMEX Submariners have this reference number. There are two other vintage COMEX Submariners that fall under the provision of the 5513 and 5514 references. The two watches are technically identical, and many of them have similar-looking dials as well. The primary difference is the addition of a helium escape valve, which is located on the left side of the case. This is a feature that is more commonly seen on another well-known Rolex timepiece \u2013 the Sea-Dweller.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference 1680 \u2013 Matte Dial with White Submariner \u2013 1976 \u2013 1979<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Though Rolex would never publically admit this if it were the case, there is a possibility that, at least in part, the 1680 with the matte white dial was produced in response to the backlash that was generated from those who felt the gold version of this watch was simply too ostentatious.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And while the technical specifications are the exact same as the other 1680 watches, when it comes to the look of this watch, it could not be more different from its sibling timepieces. There is no corporate branding to be found, no gold plating or blue dials, not even the trademark \u201cSubmariner\u201d written in red font at the bottom of the dial.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

This version of the 1680 is one of the simplest iterations of the watch that there is in terms of its appearance. This does not mean, however, that the watch is still not a beautiful piece of machinery \u2013 it certainly is, and the use of elegant markers and a light white text for the signature at the bottom are certainly aesthetically pleasing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And despite the fact that it has a very simple appearance, actually procuring one of these watches is not nearly as simple. This iteration of the 1680 was only produced for three years, so there is a relatively limited number of them in existence, meaning it can take some time to actually locate one.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference Number 16610 – Various<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The reference number 16610 represents an important moment for the Rolex Submariner – the moment where it begins to truly transition away from what we would traditionally define as \u201cvintage Rolex Submariners\u201d into the more modern wristwatch that we have come to know today. While it is certainly not the \u201cmissing link\u201d that we mentioned in the previous section, it is the watch that immediately follows it in the evolutionary chain of the Rolex Submariner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference Number 16610 – 1988 – 2010<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Even if you knew next to nothing about this watch, you could learn a lot about how significant it was to Rolex just by looking at how many years the timepiece was in production for. This watch was manufactured by Rolex for over twenty years, making it one of the most enduring, and popular, iterations of the Submariner that ever came to market.

While the font on the dial changed, in terms of its look, there were not a lot of significant changes between this watch and its immediate predecessor. However, the same cannot be said in terms of its technical specifications.

This was the first Rolex Submariner to introduce the caliber 3135, which would become one of the most commonly used calibers in any Rolex watch for many years to come.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reference Number 16610LV – 2003 – 2010 – 50th Anniversary Edition<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

This is certainly not a vintage watch, but we are covering it here because it marks an important milestone in Rolex history, of which there have certainly been several over the last century. This watch was specially commissioned by Rolex to celebrate the astounding 50th anniversary of the initial launch of the Submariner, and to acknowledge how much had changed with these watches, and within the world, since that time.

Because of its green bezel and white coloring, this watch was quickly given the nickname \u201cKermit,\u201d although depending on who you ask, this may not have been a term of endearment – at least at the outset. The watch was not immediately popular with consumers, and for a significant period of time, it was only available on the secondary market, often at a discounted price.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As so often happens, though, time ended up being much kinder to the Kermit once it was no longer in production, and currently, this remains one of the harder Submariner models to get a hold of, not to mention that it can cost anywhere from $10,000 on upwards.<\/p>\n\n\n