Octagonal Watch Case Shapes
This guide to different watch case shapes starts with the exceptional octagonal design by Audemars Piguet. The AP Royal Oak was the brainchild of none other than Gérald Genta, one of the most famous watch designers in the world. He was asked to develop an unprecedented steel watch just before the 1971 Baselworld fair by Audemars Piguet.
He wanted to create a nautical watch and became suddenly inspired by both the British Navy ship named the Royal Oak and the ancient dive helmets which had an octagonal shape and exposed screws. The design elements became the Octagonal design we know and love. It has been often replicated my many other watch manufacturers, but collectors know that this is Genta’s masterpiece and will always be tied to the Royal Oak collection. The best example of an offshoot of the Octagonal design is the Patek Philippe design pictured above. It’s subtle connection to the 8-sided shape is clear to anyone that loves watch design, however, they made it their own.
Oyster Watch Case Shapes
When Rolex was working towards the first waterproof timepiece in 1926, they actually modified a pocket watch design, while adding several patented features to it in order to protect the inner workings of the timepiece. Worn by Mercedes Gleitze as she attempted to swim the English Channel, the timepiece was actually not even worn on her wrist, as it actually dangled on her neck as she made the swim. At the end of the attempt, the Rolex Oyster survived and continued to work in spite of the freezing salt water of the ocean and history was made.
Ever since, the Oyster has undergone minor changes and become one of the most copied designs the world over. Rolex ended up tapering off the top and bottom edges of the pocket watch design, present in the first “Oyster.” However, when Rolex was asked by Panerai to develop the case for its Italian Military timepieces, Rolex brought the rounded square-ish shape back and it became the inspiration for Panerai ever since.
Panerai took a break from watchmaking for several decades in the late 1900’s, but when they returned to the hot market of watch design in the 1990’s, they brought back the original Oyster shape that Rolex had designed and manufactured for them. Of course it contained their own patented locking guard on several of the dive pieces to protect the crown. But the inspiration is evident.
The Oval Watch Case Shapes
If there ever was an Original watch style, the standard Oval watch shape would have to be it. There are probably more watch designs that are built around the Oval concept than any other style. It has a standard traditional look with clean lines. Who could argue with a circle? This A. Lange & Söhne inspired chronograph is a beauty with perpetual calendar and open worked at the 6 o’clock position. However, the oval shape doesn’t have to have such complication in it. A simple timepiece is often oval. In fact, the Oval shape is probably considered more of a “dress watch” than any other style timepiece. Almost any other timepiece shape could be considered a “sports watch” by comparison.
The Square Watch Case Shapes
The Cartier timepiece is a great example of a square or rectangle watch case shape timepiece. This watch has become one of the most prestigious timepieces for women – often worn by the First Ladies of the White House including Jacqueline Kennedy and Michelle Obama. It has a grandfather clock look to it and yet isn’t masculine at all. It has been adopted by Cartier and many others with an effeminate appeal to it. Cartier curves the edges and then provides a jeweled winding crown on the right side.
The square design could be considered jewelry over a functional timepiece. Although it does tell time quite well, it is certainly not going to be considered a “Tool Watch” and would never be expected to be made into a chronograph, or a diver’s timepiece. It is meant to be worn out and shown off.
Unique Watch Designs
Ever since the early 1970’s the watch world had to redefine itself and make strides to create unique pieces that pushed the envelope of what is horologically possible. Watchmakeers have created tremendous designs of all types and shapes. This timepiece by American watch designer Hamilton, found in the Men in Black movie series is a great example of what is possible when you leave the traditional in the rear view mirror. The case is shaped like a triangle, and its crown looks more like a space ship engine than a winding crown. Although it keeps perfect time, its time functions are probably an afterthought to the core design elements.
