No matter if you are an expert watch maker or a casual fan of luxury time pieces, there is one style of watch in particular that you are probably familiar with; the dive watch. Specifically, the style of dive watches that was released in the 1950s and ’60s, which has become such a mainstay on people’s wrists since its inception that they are recognizable even to the lay person that knows little to nothing about this sort of thing.
You are probably imagining one right now, with a minimalistic, but tasteful, dial, a rotating bezel, and a strong case built to withstand the elements. Timeless. They have been copied and tweaked countless times, and this practice will continue as long as people remain so entranced with the singular, unmistakable style of this watch.
Enter the Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight, which made its introduction in 2018. This brand’s Heritage Black Bay line of watches has been wildly successful since its inception in 2012. It all started with one distinct model, but has since expanded into a litany of beautiful Tudor Black Bay models, and the Fifty-Eight is no exception.
There is a unique mixture of elements present in the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight. It’s clear that it is cut from much of the same cloth as its predecessors in the middle of the 20th century. However, this watch does all of that while simultaneously not trying to actually be one of those watches, instead creating it’s own look.
The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight blends a bit of old with a bit of new, and to great effect. You will automatically recognize the aesthetics of the dial and bezel, as they are similar to the Tudors of the 1950s. It is built in a modern fashion, though, which includes a new movement that distinguishes this watch from older models. Something old and something new, all in one stunning package.
Let’s get down to some specifics.
A Brief History of Tudor Black Bay
Tudor took its plunge into the diving world in 1954, with the release of the “Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner,” (ref: 7922). This occurred shortly after Rolex, Tudor’s parent company, unveiled a new Submariner (ref: 6204). It was clear that the two brands were related. Neither had dates on their dials or guards on their crowns, and they shared similar bezels. These style points would become standards in the world of dive watches. The Tudor 7922 and the Rolex 6204 played a significant role in that.
Fast forward to 2012, and Tudor unleashed the magnificent Heritage Black Bay around the time Baselworld was taking place. It represented a divergence from the norm, though it was positively received and broadened the horizons of diving watches.
You could say that the BB is a mashup of several different historic watches. The dial is identical to the aforementioned 1954 model that started it all. The crown, which is noticeably large, stems from a few other ’50s and ’60s diving watches. Then we have the hands, which are similar to military watches released in the 1970s. Finally, you can’t mistake those red Tudor highlights. All in all, the Black Bay picks and chooses certain successful elements from watches of old, and throws them together to make something truly original.
The Black Bay created a new path in the world of watches. Although it pays homage to many other successful watch models, Tudor has created an unmistakable flavor with this line of time pieces. A Black Bay is a Black Bay, you don’t even have to think about it anymore. You are able to tell by looking at any of the versions released since the first one in 2012.
The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight is no different. Once again, it takes a little bit of the old and blends it with a few modern traits and mechanics, as is Black Bay’s wont. Let’s examine Tudor’s latest Black Bay creation a bit more closely.
The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight
The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight became a hot topic when the world first got a glimpse of it at Baselworld 2018. This should come as no surprise, for Tudor has made its living pushing the envelope and exploring new ways to grace people’s wrists. With the Fifty-Eight and their new GMT, also released in 2018, they once again blended old with new in order to create something dazzling.
The BB58 comes with a new movement and form factor. This brand has always known where the line is between overhauling a design for a new watch and not being bold enough. You know this is a Black Bay, but they make enough tweaks to make you also realize that it is not the Black Bay of old.
Case & Bracelet
Size is the most obvious difference between this model and previous ones. The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight is a bit smaller than its Black Bay brethren. Its case size is 39 mm and it is just under 12 mm thick (11.9). Normally, these watches are 41 mm wide and 14.9 mm thick. This might not seem like anything significant, but you instantly notice the difference when you hold it and wear it. The older models were not as practical for every day usage, to some at least. This more compact version alleviates these issues.
This watch is almost identical to the Tudor Sub, in terms of size that is. Similarly, neither watch has any crown guards. Many actually prefer this classic simplicity, so the BB58 captures an often-elusive vintage aura here. Moreover, this watch comes with thicker bevels on the side of the case that make it appear more defined and prominent. Rolex used to use these types of bevels on their Subs and GMTs, but they have since abandoned this practice once they added the maxi-case. The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight provides a familiar call-back that many will enjoy.
You can purchase this watch on a fabric or leather strap if you’d like. There is some merit to buying it with its original bracelet, however, as this is a dive watch after all. Tudor created this bracelet, which features solid links and caps on the side, further adding to the classic look. Wear it on fabric or leather if you’d like, it will still look sharp. But you might be leaving a bit of charm on the table if you do.
Another bonus to purchasing the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight on its original bracelet is that, with the appropriate screwdriver, you can do the sizing yourself. It is quite easy to simply take a few links out, which saves you an expensive trip to get it professionally serviced. Watch manufacturers don’t always pay attention to these little customer-centric details, but Tudor is not one of them. One little thing, though, is that there are but three holes on the clasp, which are used for small adjustments. Five would be ideal, and it would not break the bank if Tudor were to invest in having the extra two holes installed. Just a minor little complaint.
One way to solve this issue is by exploring alternative options, like rubber. Rubber B offers a tang buckle and cuff option for the BB58, 100% Swiss-made from the highest grade supple rubber. This allows for a more comfortable fit, and also presents the wearer with some interesting style options, as Rubber B’s products come in a variety of colors.
Bezel & Dial
The bezel and dial of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight are as gilt as they come. The black and gold look is a tried-and-true tradition dating back to the ’50s. The deep gold/pink logo, hour marker outlines, hands, bezel markings, and chronometer certification all sit on a bed of jet black. The ’50s dive watches that used this color combination were infinitely successful. Why not emulate the greats? Tudor recognizes the value of this tactic, and pulls it off masterfully with this watch.
You can’t please everyone, as the saying goes. Some were a bit turned off by the gold highlights on the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight when it was released, calling it too much of a callback. Still, most watch enthusiasts appreciated the BB58’s acknowledgement of the greats, and the fact that the watch, as a whole, is quite unique, should assuage these feelings. It also helps distinguish this watch from other Black Bays who do not have an identical color combo, which is always a plus. It can be dangerous for a brand to churn out products that appear too similar.
There are no legibility problems with this watch, no small feat with a black dial. It is simple-looking, with no date or numbers on the dial, yet this just adds to the classic feel. The aluminum bezel also adds to this quality. Unlike the shinier ceramic bezels, the metal one on the BB58 has a matte finish that is as nostalgic as it gets. The bezel is a quite thin, so it won’t always be easy to turn it if your hands are moist or if you are wearing gloves. This is a pretty common scenario when you’re diving, so this does present a real annoyance in these situations. This is done for aesthetic purposes, so you do get a bit of style in exchange for less utility.
The Movement
This watch hides its movement. The caseback is solid instead of transparent, though the movement remains an integral component of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight. The MT5402 was created by Tudor for this watch. Due to the unique dimensions of the watch compared to other Black Bays, which use the MT5602, Tudor did not have the option of using one of their older movements. The MT5602 is excellent in its own right, but would not fit the BB58.
This new movement is more compact, at 26 mm wide, compared to 31.8 mm on the MT5602. But, as Shakespeare wrote, “Though he be but little, he is fierce.” The MT5402 does not compromise any performance, still giving the wearer 70 hours of power reserve, a 4 Hz balance, and a COSC chronometer certification. Tudor has said that the no-date movement would be seen again on some of their future watches. One can only imagine what miraculous new no-date movement models Tudor has cooking up.
It should serve as a bonus that Tudor was able to create a new movement for this watch. They could have easily gone out-of-house to find an engine that fit in their new car body, yet they decided to build one on their own. It’s a good one, so they should be commended for their ingenuity in creating a diminutive dynamo like the MT5402.
Wearing the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight
Good luck taking this baby off once its on your wrist. The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight’s enthralling mix of old and new is immediately felt upon putting it on. Does it make you feel like you’ve taken a trip back to the ’50s? Do you feel like a person who’s living in the moment? It truly depends on how you want to look at it. Either way, it is truly a joy to wear. Some watches take a bit of convincing to put on, for there is some aspect of them that might be questionable. Not the BB58, though. You can tell that it is sturdy and ready to be at your side no matter what life throws at you, without sacrificing one bit of style.
The case size is very sporty. A watch that is too small can seem insignificant or fragile, while a watch that is too big can be garish. Then there’s the perfect middle ground that the Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight lives on, which lets you look good in a social setting in one moment and be active in another. The black on the dial and bezel make the watch seem substantial and slightly bigger than it actually is. The bezel has a matte finish indicative of metal in lieu of ceramic, but it will still catch some light from time to time and make your wrist look radiant.
The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight can go anywhere with you. It’s nearly monochromatic, so it really goes with any type or color of outfit. Because of its slimness, you can wear it with long sleeves without any issue of it latching onto your cuff, which is quite an annoying aspect of bigger watches. It works well if you dress it up and feature it in a formal setting, but it can also fit right in at a casual barbecue with friends on a Sunday afternoon while football is on. It also looks presentable on a variety of straps, including leather, fabric, or even rubber. Whatever you need for this watch to be, it can pull it off. For those who are looking to purchase one do-it-all watch and potentially end their collection right there, they have found it with the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight.
Some people place value on chronometry when it comes to their time pieces. Others just want it to look and feel nice, and to keep the time well enough. For the former group, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight once again excels. The chronometry on this watch is elite. Time it if you’d like, you’ll find that it is about one or two seconds fast after an entire week. There is not much more room for improvement in this category. Again, it doesn’t matter that much to many watch-wearers, but for the ones who place stock in this sort of thing, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight is the watch for them.
This watch is comfortable. But that is contingent on if your wrist is perfectly sized for one of the three adjustment options. As stated previously, five would have been a bit better, as it allows for a more exact fit for a larger variety of wrist sizes. Three is still good, and should do the trick most of the time. But not all the time.
All in all, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight was an enjoyable wear. The size and color scheme allows for an enormous variety of uses, and there are several balancing acts that Tudor clearly recognizes and knows how to manage. It should be a welcome addition to any watch-head’s collection, or it can simply be the one watch that someone decides to splurge on. Once again, a balancing act that the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight handles seamlessly.
Competitors
The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight is excellent; there’s no denying that. Nevertheless, this watch exists in the crowded field that is dive watches, so there will always be many other brands for watch-wearers to choose from if there is something about this model that they disagree with. You’re looking at about a $2,500 to $3,700 price tag for the BB58, depending on if you buy it used. That places it in the middle of the pack price-wise when it comes to luxury sports watches. It’s also a style that people understand more-so than many other types of watches, since dive watches have been around for so long and are so well-known. You can’t get by on cheap tricks in this world; your watch has to be genuinely good, in more ways than one. Here are some competitors to the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight.
41mm Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
Omega’s selection of Seamaster watches is expansive and excellent. The one that most closely resembles the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight is probably their 41mm Omega Seamaster Diver 300M. It’s bigger than the BB58, but it also features a hidden movement due to the non-transparent caseback, which was also designed in-house. The bezel rotates too, though this one is ceramic instead of aluminum, giving it more shine and less durability. You can get it in blue, which is a traditional color for Omegas, or black, which makes it even more BB58-ish. It’s similarly-priced at around $4,000.
You also have the option of something a little more classic-looking with the Seamaster 300, though you’ll have to pay up. It is almost twice as expensive. There’s also the Seamaster Diver 300, which is 42 mm and comes with a “wave dial.” That one will set you back just over $5,000. Omega has quite a few options when it comes to dive watches.
40mm Oris Divers Sixty-Five Bronze Bezel
The Divers Sixty-Five line of watches, by Oris, offers a lot of bang for your buck. They look and perform well, they are comfortable, and, in the case of the 40mm, are only around $2,000. There is also the 36mm option that has a similar vintage-looking color scheme as the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight and is even cheaper than its 40mm sibling. The size might be an issue for some, especially if you have a bigger wrist. The movement also does not match up to the BB58’s, though it isn’t bad. The entire line of Oris Divers Sixty-Fives are real value plays that will attract watch-wearers looking to maximize their dollars, possibly as a first significant watch purchase. And hey, it comes with a date, which many people appreciate both from a stylistic and a utilitarian perspective.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII
The IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII is not a dive watch, so this comparison might seem strange. However, this watch and the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight are both sporty, have similar price tags (just over $5,000), are nearly the same size, and have a classic vibe to them. The case on these watches used to be 41mm, though IWC brought them in a bit to 40mm some years ago. This made them more wearable, which is further aided by a bracelet that really feels great on your wrist. This isn’t the watch for you if you plan on actually diving with your dive watch, as many do. But if you’re just in it for the look, feel, and an active lifestyle that occurs above sea level, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII is a solid alternative to the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight.
In Summation
Many watches cause a stir when they are introduced to the world, yet they soon fizzle out. In order to have legs, a brand needs to construct time pieces that are able to make a statement when they are released, while also having enough staying power to remain in the minds of consumers once the next shiny thing comes along. That is done by utilizing a style that integrates classic elements with new, soon-to-be classic ones, while never sacrificing any performance. It’s been a few years now, and the Tudor Black Bay remains a stunning mixture of old and new. Its versatility has not waned either, as you can still rock this bad boy at any sort of occasion and while doing pretty much any sort of activity.
The wait lists for the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight are sometimes several months long at watch retailers in the U.S., so people are still yearning for this time piece. It doesn’t matter if you have been collecting watches for decades, or if you are looking for your first luxury watch. The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight is adaptable, sleek, and ready to adorn your wrist.
More About Rubber B
Rubber B offers a tremendous selection of bands for both Tudor and Rolex timepieces. All Rubber B bands are made 100% in Switzerland of pure vulcanized rubber. All bands are non toxic, non marking and allergen free. Additionally, no coatings, blends, glues or bonding is used in the manufacturing. Even the 2 – tone bands are constructed with pure forms without any adhesive that can wear down or warp over time.
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight owners have the luxury of choosing between the Tang Buckle series or the SwimSkin® cuff series, both of which come in three different colors. For more information, visit the BB58 page on Rubber B’s online database here.
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