Rolex Submariner Guide: History, References, Models & Rubber Straps

Rolex Submariner Guide: History, References, Models & Rubber Straps

The Rolex Submariner is one of the most recognizable luxury sports watches ever created. Introduced in 1953 as a professional diving instrument, the Submariner has developed from a purpose-built underwater tool into a watchmaking icon associated with exploration, cinema, collecting and contemporary luxury.

More than seven decades after its introduction, the fundamental formula remains remarkably consistent: a highly legible dial, rotating timing bezel, waterproof Oyster case, automatic movement and robust bracelet architecture.

The modern Rolex Submariner measures 41 mm and is waterproof to 300 meters / 1,000 feet. Current no-date models use Rolex calibre 3230, while Submariner Date references use calibre 3235. Both movements provide approximately 70 hours of power reserve.

Rolex Submariner Quick Guide

Introduced: 1953
Original water resistance: 100 meters / 330 feet
Current case size: 41 mm
Current water resistance: 300 meters / 1,000 feet
No-Date movement: Rolex calibre 3230
Date movement: Rolex calibre 3235
Current bezel: Unidirectional 60-minute Cerachrom ceramic
Bracelet: Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock and Glidelock
Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire
Current materials: Oystersteel, Yellow Rolesor, yellow gold and white gold depending on reference

Rolex describes the Submariner today as its benchmark among divers’ watches. The collection retains the fundamental architecture established by the original while incorporating modern materials, movements and manufacturing techniques.

Rolex Submariner Guide: History, References, Models & Rubber Straps
Rolex Submariner Guide

The History of the Rolex Submariner

1953: The Beginning of the Submariner

Rolex dates the launch of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner to 1953. The original watch was waterproof to 100 meters, an important capability during an era in which recreational and professional diving were rapidly developing.

The Submariner was publicly presented at the Basel watch fair in 1954, which explains why 1954 is sometimes incorrectly cited as the year the model was created.

Early references such as the 6204, 6205 and 6200 established design characteristics that remain immediately recognizable today: a dark dial, luminous hour markers, rotating timing bezel and an Oyster case developed for underwater use.

The Submariner and James Bond

The Submariner’s place in popular culture was strengthened considerably through its association with James Bond.

Sean Connery wore a Rolex Submariner reference 6538 while portraying James Bond in films including Dr. No, From Russia with Love and Goldfinger. The large-crown 6538 subsequently became one of the most recognizable vintage Submariner references.

A different Submariner appeared during Roger Moore’s era. For Live and Let Die in 1973, a reference 5513 was modified as a film prop with the famous rotating saw-tooth bezel and fictional magnetic capability.

The connection between Rolex, Bond and the Submariner helped move the watch beyond professional diving and into global popular culture.

Rolex Submariner Guide: History, References, Models & Rubber Straps

How the Rolex Submariner Evolved

Rather than completely redesigning the Submariner, Rolex has progressively refined it.

1959: Crown Guards and the 40 mm Case

The reference 5512 represented an important step toward the familiar modern Submariner. Introduced in 1959, it brought protective crown guards and a case measuring approximately 40 mm.

The long-running 5512 and 5513 references helped establish what collectors now recognize as the classic Submariner profile.

1969: The Submariner Date

Rolex introduced the Submariner Date in 1969.

Reference 1680 added a date aperture at 3 o’clock together with the signature Cyclops magnifying lens. Early versions featuring the word “Submariner” printed in red have become known among collectors as the Red Submariner.

The addition of the date also opened the collection to a broader range of materials and configurations.

1979: Sapphire Crystal and 300-Meter Water Resistance

The reference 16800 represented another major technical transition.

It introduced a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, calibre 3035, quickset date functionality and a depth rating of 300 meters / 1,000 feet.

The Submariner also transitioned to the safer unidirectional rotating bezel architecture during this generation.

The Transition to 904L Steel

The short-lived reference 168000 marked the Submariner’s transition from 316L stainless steel to the highly corrosion-resistant 904L steel family.

Rolex now refers to its proprietary implementation of this material as Oystersteel.

2008–2010: Cerachrom and Glidelock

The six-digit Submariner generation introduced one of the greatest visual and functional changes in the collection’s modern history.

Rolex replaced aluminum bezel inserts with highly scratch-resistant Cerachrom ceramic and introduced the Glidelock bracelet-extension system, allowing the bracelet to be adjusted without tools.

These features remain integral to the current Submariner.

2020: The 41 mm Submariner Generation

In 2020, Rolex replaced the 40 mm ceramic Submariner generation with a redesigned 41 mm collection.

The no-date reference 124060 received calibre 3230, while the Submariner Date family moved to calibre 3235.

Despite the increase in nominal diameter, Rolex revised the proportions of the lugs and bracelet, giving the contemporary Submariner a more refined profile than the preceding “Super Case” generation.

Rolex Submariner 116613LB on Pacific Blue Rubber B Strap
Rolex Submariner 116613LB on Pacific Blue Rubber B Strap

Rolex Submariner References

Because the Submariner has been produced for more than 70 years, reference numbers are essential when selecting replacement straps, bracelets or other fitted accessories.

Production dates for vintage Rolex references can overlap and should be treated as approximate.

Important Rolex Submariner No-Date References

ReferenceApprox. PeriodSignificance
62041953–1954Among the earliest Submariners
62051950sEarly small-crown Submariner
62001950sEarly “Big Crown” reference
6536 / 6536-11950sCalibre 1030 generation
65381950sFamous “Big Crown” James Bond reference
55101958Short-lived transitional reference
55081958–1962Final small-crown generation
55121959–1980Crown guards and approximately 40 mm case
55131962–1989One of the longest-running Submariner references
55141970sSpecial COMEX-associated reference
140601990sSapphire-crystal no-date Submariner
14060M1999–2012Calibre 3130
1140602012–202040 mm ceramic no-date Submariner
1240602020–present41 mm, calibre 3230

Important Rolex Submariner Date References

ReferenceApprox. PeriodConfiguration
16801969–1979First Submariner Date
1680/81969–1979Yellow-gold Submariner Date
168001979–1988Sapphire crystal, calibre 3035
168081979–1988Yellow gold
168031980sEarly Yellow Rolesor
1680001988–1989Transitional 904L steel reference
166101989–2010Long-running steel Submariner Date
166181989–2010Yellow gold
166131989–2010Yellow Rolesor
16610LV2003–2010Green bezel “Kermit”
116618LN / LB2008–2020Yellow gold ceramic
116613LN / LB2009–2020Yellow Rolesor ceramic
116619LB2008–2020White-gold blue “Smurf”
116610LN2010–2020Steel, black ceramic bezel
116610LV2010–2020Green “Hulk”
126610LN2020–presentOystersteel, black bezel
126610LV2020–presentOystersteel, green bezel
126613LN2020–presentYellow Rolesor, black
126613LB2020–presentYellow Rolesor, blue
126618LN2020–presentYellow gold, black
126618LB2020–presentYellow gold, blue
126619LB2020–present generationWhite gold, blue bezel

Current Rolex Submariner Models

The contemporary Submariner generation is built around a 41 mm Oyster case.

Rolex Submariner 124060

The reference 124060 is the modern expression of the original no-date Submariner.

It pairs a black dial with a black Cerachrom bezel and Oystersteel case. Inside is Rolex calibre 3230, providing approximately 70 hours of power reserve.

For purists, the absence of a date window maintains the symmetry associated with the earliest professional Submariners.

Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN

The 126610LN combines an Oystersteel case with a black dial and black Cerachrom bezel.

It is powered by calibre 3235 and includes the signature date window and Cyclops magnification lens.

Rolex Submariner Date 126610LV

Reference 126610LV pairs a black dial with a green Cerachrom bezel.

This distinction is important: unlike the previous Hulk, the current LV does not have a green dial.

Rolex Submariner Date 126613LN and 126613LB

The Yellow Rolesor Submariner combines Oystersteel and 18 kt yellow gold.

The 126613LN uses a black dial and bezel, while the 126613LB combines a royal-blue dial with a blue Cerachrom bezel.

Rolex Submariner Date 126618LN and 126618LB

The 126618 family is constructed from 18 kt yellow gold.

The LN configuration is finished in black, while the 126618LB combines yellow gold with a royal-blue dial and blue ceramic bezel.

Rolex Submariner Date 126619LB

The white-gold 126619LB combines a black dial with a blue Cerachrom bezel.

It represents the precious-metal successor to the blue-dial 116619LB frequently known among collectors as the Smurf. Rolex technical documentation specifies a 41 mm white-gold Oyster case, calibre 3235 and 300-meter water resistance.

Rolex Submariner Nicknames Explained

Rolex Submariner Guide: History, References, Models & Rubber Straps

Collector nicknames are unofficial, but several have become deeply embedded in modern Rolex terminology.

Rolex Submariner “Kermit” – 16610LV

Introduced for the Submariner’s 50th anniversary, the 16610LV combines a green aluminum bezel with a black dial.

The Kermit should not be described as having a green dial.

Rolex Submariner “Hulk” – 116610LV

The 116610LV introduced a much more dramatic green appearance.

Unlike the Kermit, the Hulk combines a green Cerachrom ceramic bezel with a green dial.

This distinction makes the 116610LV instantly recognizable and has contributed substantially to its popularity among modern Rolex collectors.

Rolex Submariner 126610LV

The current 126610LV returns to the Kermit concept by combining a green ceramic bezel with a black dial.

Collectors have applied several unofficial nicknames to the watch, including “Starbucks” and “Cermit.”

Rubber B uses reference numbers rather than relying exclusively on nicknames because precise case generation and clasp compatibility are essential when selecting an integrated strap.

Rolex Submariner “Smurf” – 116619LB

The discontinued white-gold 116619LB became known as the Smurf because of its distinctive blue dial and blue ceramic bezel.

Its successor, 126619LB, retains the blue bezel but uses a black dial.

Rolex Submariner “Bluesy”

“Bluesy” is commonly associated with blue Yellow Rolesor Submariners, including references such as the 16613LB, 116613LB and current 126613LB.

The combination of Oystersteel, yellow gold and deep blue has remained one of the most recognizable configurations within the Submariner Date family.

Rubber Straps for the Rolex Submariner

The correct strap for a Rolex Submariner depends primarily on case generation and clasp architecture.

A strap engineered for a pre-2010 40 mm Submariner is not automatically compatible with a 40 mm ceramic reference, and a 40 mm strap should not be installed on the current 41 mm generation.

Rubber B separates the Submariner collection into three primary fitment generations:

Rolex Submariner 40 mm — Non-Ceramic, Pre-2010

This category covers traditional aluminum-bezel Submariners equipped with the earlier Oyster clasp architecture.

Examples include references such as:

  • 16610
  • 16610LV
  • 16613
  • 16618
  • 14060
  • 14060M

Specific compatibility should always be confirmed by reference before installation.

Rolex Submariner 40 mm — Ceramic, 2010–2020

The ceramic 40 mm generation introduced Glidelock compatibility.

Important references include:

  • 114060
  • 116610LN
  • 116610LV
  • 116613LN
  • 116613LB
  • 116618LN
  • 116618LB
  • 116619LB

Rubber B produces integrated strap configurations specifically calibrated for this case and clasp generation.

Rolex Submariner 41 mm — Ceramic, 2020–Present

The newest Rubber B fitment category is engineered for the 41 mm Submariner generation introduced in 2020.

This includes watches such as:

  • 124060
  • 126610LN
  • 126610LV
  • 126613LN
  • 126613LB
  • 126618LN
  • 126618LB
  • 126619LB

The geometry is specific to the 41 mm case and should not be confused with the preceding 40 mm ceramic generation.

Rubber B Strap Systems for the Rolex Submariner

Rolex Submariner Guide: History, References, Models & Rubber Straps
Submariner with support for Rolex clasp

Depending on the Submariner generation selected, Rubber B offers several strap and closure configurations.

Original Rolex Clasp Integration

Certain Rubber B straps are engineered to integrate directly with the owner’s original Rolex clasp.

For ceramic Submariners, this makes it possible to retain the Rolex Glidelock extension system while replacing the steel Oyster bracelet with Swiss-Made vulcanized rubber.

Rubber B’s Carbon Fiber Series incorporates STRENGTH INFUSION TECHNOLOGY, in which carbon-fiber molecules are fused within the vulcanized rubber during molding to increase vertical and lateral stress resistance around the Glidelock clasp.

Tang Buckle Series

strap for the Rolex submariner lv
Rubber B Band with Tang Buckle

For collectors who prefer not to remove the clasp from the original Oyster bracelet, selected Submariner straps are available with a Rubber B 316L stainless-steel tang buckle.

This configuration allows the original bracelet and clasp to remain assembled and stored separately.

Velcro® Series

Submariner with Velcro Strap
Submariner with Velcro Strap

Selected 40 mm ceramic Submariner models can also be paired with Rubber B’s industrial-strength Velcro® closure system incorporating a titanium loop.

The configuration creates a notably different appearance while maintaining a secure sports-oriented closure system.

The Dream Strap

Rolex Submariner Guide: History, References, Models & Rubber Straps

The Dream Strap combines Swiss-Made vulcanized rubber with Rubber B MeshMatic® technology, engineered to create highly precise wrist sizing.

The design also incorporates Blocked Integration™ at the case for a fixed, flush connection between the strap and watch.

Blocked Integration™

Rolex Submariner date or no date

A defining characteristic of Rubber B is the integrated connection between the strap and the watch case.

Instead of relying on a generic straight-end rubber strap, compatible Rubber B straps are calibrated specifically for the corresponding Submariner case architecture.

Solid inserts stabilize the connection point and create a flush, motion-resistant interface at the lugs.

No generic adapters are required for the correctly matched Submariner application.

Why Pair a Rolex Submariner With Vulcanized Rubber?

Tri Color_strap Rolex Submariner
Submariner with different color straps from Rubber B

The Submariner began as a professional diving instrument, making rubber a natural material for owners who regularly expose the watch to water, heat or active use.

Rubber B straps are manufactured and hand-finished in Switzerland from pure vulcanized rubber.

Unlike leather, vulcanized rubber does not absorb water during swimming and can be cleaned easily following exposure to saltwater, perspiration or everyday environmental conditions.

The integrated architecture also preserves the strong visual relationship between the case and strap rather than creating a gap between the lugs.

The objective is not to change what makes the Submariner recognizable. It is to provide another way to wear one of the world’s most established professional watches.

Rolex Submariner Strap Compatibility Guide

Rolex Submariner Guide: History, References, Models & Rubber Straps
Submariner with Green “Hulk” bezel

Before ordering a rubber strap, identify three details:

1. Rolex reference number
Determine the exact reference rather than relying on a nickname such as Hulk, Kermit or Bluesy.

2. Case generation
Confirm whether the watch belongs to the pre-2010 40 mm, 2010–2019 ceramic 40 mm or 2020-present 41 mm generation.

3. Clasp preference
Determine whether the strap should retain the original Rolex clasp or use an alternative closure configuration.

The Rubber B Submariner model selector separates these generations to simplify correct fitment.

Frequently Asked Questions About the Rolex Submariner

When was the Rolex Submariner introduced?

Rolex dates the launch of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner to 1953. It was publicly presented at the Basel watch fair in 1954.

What size is the current Rolex Submariner?

The current Submariner and Submariner Date use a 41 mm Oyster case.

How waterproof is a Rolex Submariner?

Modern Rolex Submariner models are waterproof to 300 meters / 1,000 feet.

What is the difference between the Submariner and Submariner Date?

The Submariner reference 124060 displays hours, minutes and seconds without a date window.

Submariner Date models add a date display at 3 o’clock beneath Rolex’s Cyclops magnifying lens.

The 124060 uses calibre 3230, while current Submariner Date models use calibre 3235.

What is the Rolex Submariner Kermit?

The original Kermit is reference 16610LV, introduced in 2003. It has a green aluminum bezel and black dial.

What is the Rolex Submariner Hulk?

The Hulk is reference 116610LV, produced during the 40 mm ceramic generation. It features both a green ceramic bezel and a green dial.

What is the current green Rolex Submariner?

The current green-bezel Submariner Date is reference 126610LV. It combines a green Cerachrom bezel with a black dial.

Does Rubber B make a strap for the Rolex Submariner?

Yes. Rubber B produces model-specific Swiss-Made vulcanized rubber straps for multiple generations of the Rolex Submariner.

The current collection separates fitment between pre-2010 40 mm non-ceramic watches, 2010–2019 40 mm ceramic watches and 2020-present 41 mm ceramic Submariners.

Can a 40 mm Submariner strap fit a 41 mm Submariner?

No. The case architecture and strap geometry differ. Rubber B specifically states that its 41 mm Submariner products are not designed for the earlier 40 mm generation.

Can a Rubber B strap use the Rolex Glidelock clasp?

Compatible Rubber B configurations are specifically engineered to connect to the original Rolex Glidelock clasp used on ceramic Submariners.

Other closure configurations are also available depending on the reference and strap series.

Where are Rubber B Rolex Submariner straps made?

Rubber B straps are 100% manufactured and hand-finished in Switzerland from vulcanized rubber and engineered for specific luxury-watch case architectures.

Rolex Submariner: From Professional Instrument to Modern Icon

Few watches have remained as visually consistent while undergoing as much technical development as the Rolex Submariner.

From the early 100-meter references of the 1950s to the 41 mm, 300-meter Submariner of today, Rolex has continuously refined the materials, movements, bezel construction, clasp technology and case architecture without abandoning the fundamental identity of the original diving watch.

That continuity is precisely what makes reference-specific strap engineering so important.

A vintage 16610, ceramic 116610 and modern 126610 may clearly belong to the same family, but their cases and clasp systems are not identical. Rubber B develops separate integrated strap solutions to respect those mechanical differences while maintaining the proportions of the Submariner itself.

For compatible configurations, colors and closure systems, explore the complete collection of Swiss-Made Rubber B straps engineered specifically for the Rolex Submariner.

Rolex Submariner Guide: History, References, Models & Rubber Straps

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