Many collectors ask what is better – Annual Calendar vs Perpetual Calendar? For hundreds of years, watchmakers have added calendar features to their timepieces. Over time, new complications have been added that extend the features and capabilities of the timepiece. The grande complication timepieces have the most challenging array of features packed into the small watch case design.
The Patek Philippe model 5327R pictured above is a great example of a calendar watch that provides not just the time, but also the day, the date, month, leap year, and a 24-hour indication. It does it with style and beauty. This is where the finest watchmakers excel beyond what is normally expected.
What is a Perpetual Calendar Watch?
A perpetual calendar has the day, date, and year embedded in the design of the timepiece. It is designed with exquisite care and the ability to take into account leap years and the difference between February’s 28 days and 29th day every 4 years. It also has the ability to distinguish the months that have 30 days and 31 days.
Some perpetual calendars even show the moon phase and show whether a particular year is a leap year or not. Patek Philippe filed one of the earliest patents for a perpetual calendar as early as 1889. Although early perpetual calendar watches were made in the 1700s. Patek Philippe released the first wristwatch with a perpetual calendar in 1925 – the P-72.
Perpetual watches will not need to be adjusted manually until the year 2100. Due to the extensive complexity of Perpetual calendar watches, these watches are much higher in price than watches with lesser complications.
What is a Day-Date Watch?
Rolex invented the first Day + Date watch which shows the spelled out week and the date aperture. This has become fairly common in the market today. It is not nearly as difficult to assemble as a Perpetual Calendar watch. Normal Day-Dates need to be adjusted every month.
What is an Annual Calendar Watch?
An annual calendar watch has the day, date, and month on the timepiece. However, it is built so that it won’t have to be adjusted monthly. Unlike the day-date, it is able to determine the differences between months that have 28, 30, and 31 days. However, it will need to be reset each year. It will not recognize leap years and every 4 years you would need to adjust the watch at the end of February.
The big benefit of the Annual Calendar is that the complication is far less advanced and tedious to create. Therefore these timepieces often cost less than the Perpetual Calendar, but often more than the standard Day-Date models.
The annual calendar feature was developed and patented by Patek Philippe in 1996. It has since been used extensively around the market.
Rolex Sky-Dweller
The Rolex Sky-Dweller is a newer design of the Annual Calendar timepiece. It not only has a date aperture, but the red dot on the outermost edge of the dial indicates which month we are in. In the example above we see that the red dot is in the 8 o’clock position. 8 equates to the month of August. So, this watch tells you it is August 28th. The watch is also extraordinary because it has the center command ring that also indicates a 2nd-time zone for a GMT function. This unique and compact design is the first of its kind when it was released.
In-Line Perpetual Calendar
Here is a new trend that Patek Philippe is starting with the new 5236P. This perpetual calendar timepiece has the day of the week (3 digits), followed by the numerical date, followed by the month (3 digits) all in one line at the middle to the top part of the timepiece. This new self-winding movement has 3 patent applications filed. The caliber 31-260 PS QL, has a small aperture at the 4 o’clock position that indicates the leap year notation. It has a small aperture at the 8 o’clock position that indicates day or night time. The small second window at 6 o’clock has a moon phase indicator embedded in the top of the dial.
Even though this timepiece is extremely complicated and built with 503 parts it has a very simplified look to it. It isn’t super busy and is quite a change from the 5208 design that shows the 3 parts of the date split up across the top of the timepiece. It may seem a bit awkward for Westerners that are used to saying Day of the Week, Month, or Numerical Day to read this new indicator. However, the genius that went into this watch design is exceptional. Of course, to pick up a Patek with this kind of complication, be prepared to spend about the same as a super racecar. Watches with this amount of complication could take months to assemble.
No matter whether you are looking for an annual calendar, perpetual calendar, or a standard date function, Rubber B is here to provide the best watch straps for your timepiece. We carry the best-made Swiss bands for your Patek Philippe, IWC, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and many other brands. We have many styles, and colors and we support various deployant buckles. For more information visit our site here.
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